The purpose of the following guide is to help the beginner do-it-yourselfer accomplish his/her first drywall repair, with minimal steps, tools and materials. Since the majority of the homes I repair come in the Cincinnati, Ohio, area, I will focus this discussion toward conventional drywall, finished with a smooth texture. If parede de drywall em sao caetano do sul are created from plaster, I wouldn’t recommend attempting a repair yourself. With plaster, it is advisable to leave it to a qualified professional.
Drywall repair is really a straightforward process that virtually any homeowner can learn to do. Given that homes today are designed with lumber inferior compared to that of generations past, movement of drywall from warping and shrinking in the home’s framing causes a variety of drywall-related problems. Therefore, many homeowners will have to repair corners, cracks, screw pops, tape seams, and other drywall imperfections that accrue over time. In addition, damage from water intrusion, household accidents and normal wear and tear necessitate a periodic drywall repair to keep the walls looking good, especially before they are painted.
Drywall Repair Tools and Materials
Go to your local home improvement store and buy:
(1) 4″ Drywall Knife
(1) 12″ STAINLESS Mud Pan
(1-qt) All-Purpose Joint Compound
(1) Drywall Sanding Sponge
(1-qt) Latex-Based Drywall Primer
(1) 2″ Angle-Tipped Paint Brush
1. Depending on the level of drywall repairs required, remove an appropriate level of joint compound (or “mud,” since it is commonly referred to) from the plastic tub using your 4″ drywall knife and scrape it off into your 12″ mud pan. The theory here is to help keep the joint compound fresh so that is doesn’t dry out-so only take as much mud out since you can use within 10 minutes. Otherwise, “chunks” of drywall mud develop, making your drywall repair a lot more difficult.
2. Briefly work the drywall mud back and forth in your pan a few times-like you’ll knead bread dough. This removes air from the mud in reducing bubbles when you stick it on the wall.
3. Apply a thin coat of drywall mud to the crack or dent. Utilize the knife to scrape the mud flush with the surrounding surface of the drywall. It is best to apply 2 or 3 3 thin coats of mud (allowing each coat to dry among applications) versus one thick coat. One of the more common mistakes I see with drywall repair is mud that’s applied too thick. This rarely results in an excellent surface and makes for additional time and mess through the sanding phase.
4. Allow the mud to dry. Dry time is highly influenced by type and make of compound, thickness and amount of mud application, and also ambient temperature and humidity of the room. If you want to accelerate dry time, grab a hair dryer to dry the region (as seen in this picture of my craftsman Drew).
5. Once the drywall mud is totally dry, place a drop cloth below the area of drywall repair, as you are going to make a mess next! Use your sanding sponge to sand the region flush with the rest of the wall. Use lighter pressure as you finish to avoid gouging or scratching up your projects. Some people like to have a pal hold a shop vacuum around the region to suck up all of the drywall dust while they work. If you opt to do this make sure you have a drywall dust or HEPA filter installed-otherwise you’ll just end up blowing the dust through the entire room.
6. Take a damp paper towel or cloth to wipe down the drywall repair to remove any remaining dust. You may also use a wet cloth or sponge to “wet sand” the area to get a supplementary smooth effect, if desired.
7. Using your small paintbrush, apply a light coat of primer to the drywall repair. This will seal the joint compound, hide the repaired area, and prepare it to accept paint.
8. When painting the drywall repair, I would recommend painting an entire section of the wall, if possible. Although you may have left over paint from once the wall was originally painted, or purchased new paint with same formula as the original, it is unlikely to match. Walls age and collect dirt as time passes, altering the look of them and color. Hence, when you can paint a whole portion of the wall, up to corner or seam, the difference of “new” versus “old” paint is less visible.
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